There are ways to discover the province of Cádiz that go far beyond the main roads and well-known destinations. Our CEO, James Stuart, recommends one of them: exploring the Cádiz mountains behind the wheel of two classic Volkswagen convertibles, enjoying the scenery, the whitewashed villages and the simple pleasure of travelling at a slower pace.
The adventure began in Santa Lucía, at the iconic Venta El Toro, from where they set off on a circular journey of around 330 kilometres along some of the most beautiful and least travelled roads in the province. Their companions for the day were two survivors from another era: a 1972 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia and a 1978 Volkswagen Beetle Cabriolet.
For James Stuart, classic Volkswagens are much more than a means of transport. When he moved to Vejer in 1988, he drove all the way from the distant Scottish Highlands in a 1972 Volkswagen Beetle. It was a journey of more than 3,200 kilometres completed in four days, sleeping under the stars, crossing Europe with two windsurf boards and a pair of skis strapped to the roof, while Blondie played on the cassette player.
That car, which he had named “Leonardo”, became a true travelling companion. It accompanied him along Alpine roads, mountain passes, journeys across the Sierra Morena and adventures between different countries. “You should always give a car a name,” James likes to joke, convinced that the emotional connection is part of the experience of driving a classic.
Years later, Leonardo disappeared following an accident on a roundabout in Seville. Although the car could have been repaired, circumstances meant James eventually lost track of it. For years afterwards he searched scrapyards and workshops hoping to catch sight of his old Beetle again. To him, Leonardo was as close as a machine can come to being a travelling companion.
Beyond the cars themselves, the route is a wonderful excuse to discover a different side of Cádiz. From Vejer, the journey passes through farmland, reservoirs and cork oak forests before entering some of the most spectacular landscapes of the Alcornocales Natural Park and the Cádiz mountains.
Along the way, villages such as Benalup-Casas Viejas and Alcalá de los Gazules invite visitors to stop and explore. In Alcalá, it is well worth climbing to the church at the highest point of the town to enjoy the views.
Travelling with the roof down through the Cádiz mountains at midday requires a certain tolerance for sunshine. The original vinyl seats of both cars were already feeling the heat by the time they reached the higher sections of the route. Fortunately, the mountain roads, cork forests and limestone landscapes provided a welcome sense of freshness. James Stuart had promised his companion some of the finest scenery in the province and roads that were practically empty. As the day unfolded, the promise was more than fulfilled. Villages were dressed for local fiestas, colourful bunting hung across the streets, and smiles and waves greeted the small procession of classic cars wherever they went.
Although the Volkswagen Beetle remains an icon for several generations, James admits that for many younger people it belongs to a different era altogether. For decades it held the longest production run of any car in history, becoming a symbol of post-war recovery, a counterculture icon and eventually an object of nostalgia. Manual windows, barely effective heating, no air conditioning, a rear-mounted engine and a level of mechanical simplicity that seems almost unimaginable today.
James Pullan’s Karmann Ghia represents a more exclusive and sporting interpretation of the same philosophy. Designed in Italy and built on the same mechanical foundations as the Beetle, its low, elegant profile contrasted sharply with the more practical lines of its famous cousin. The car still wears its striking original colour, California Lime Green, a shade perfectly suited to early 1970s California.
The route wound its way through the vibrant greens and yellows of late spring in the Alcornocales Natural Park. “How do you know this route so well?” James Pullan asked at one of the higher viewpoints. The answer lay in James Stuart’s past, having spent years organising cycling holidays throughout Andalucía and getting to know many of these roads from the saddle of a bicycle. Remarkably, much of the route remains virtually unchanged today.
After crossing mountain passes and cork oak forests, the lunch stop came in Ubrique, where both travellers enjoyed a well-earned break beneath the shade of a magnificent cork oak before continuing towards Medina Sidonia along some of the quietest and most scenic roads in the province.
Many years after losing Leonardo, James received a very special gift from his wife Ellie: a 1978 Volkswagen Beetle Cabriolet, which they named “Otto”. The car had belonged from new to a Dutch lady who had driven it for almost her entire life. It retained its original Diamond Silver paintwork, its factory engine and more than 140,000 kilometres, all driven by the same owner. Since then, Otto has become James’s faithful companion on many journeys across Andalucía.
As evening fell and they made their way back towards Vejer through holm oaks, eucalyptus trees and open countryside, both reflected on a simple idea. Perhaps classic cars endure for the same reason old friendships do: they require patience, understanding and a willingness to accept imperfections. Somewhere along the quiet roads of the Cádiz mountains, James found himself remembering a lesson learned many years ago alongside Leonardo: journeys are always more rewarding when taken slowly.
**James Stuart’s Recommended Route**
Vejer de la Frontera → Libreros → Benalup-Casas Viejas → Alcalá de los Gazules → Puerto de Gáliz → Mojón de la Víbora → Ubrique → El Bosque → Algar → Tempul → San José del Valle → Paterna de Rivera → Medina Sidonia → Vejer de la Frontera
**Approximate distance:** 330 km
As James recalls at the end of his journey, quoting Ernest Hemingway:
*”The most important reason for going from one place to another is to see what’s in between.”*
Few routes illustrate that sentiment better than this one.
*Photography and route © James Stuart. Discover more on his blog.*
